There is something so natural about orange bikes. My first bike ever was orange. It was from sears and it had the big bars, banana seat and I paid every penny it was worth (39.99 + tax) with work that I did. My parents never bought any of my bikes. Ari
Dear Ari: Outstanding video!!! I don't know much, but I do know how to stay warm in frigid temps on a bicycle. In my view, the fundamental key with the feet is to invest in a pair of Lake winter boots. They are spendy, but they are the only ones that work and they last (I am on my second pair as my first pair finally fell apart after a good six hard seasons). Get a relatively huge size that is at least 3 sizes bigger than you would use in the summer. For example I wear a size 11.5 cycling shoe and I use a size 15 for winter (I tried to get a pair of size 16 but they were unavailable). The big size allows one to add a thick wool-felt insole (Steger Mukluks in Ely makes the best wool felt insoles). Wear a thin wool sock (Surly makes the perfect sock for this), get GOLD BOND foot powder and dump a bunch of it in the firt sock layer (to absorb the sweat...(Note: Use this trick during the T.I. as well). Over the thin wool sock add a thick Dachstein Expedition Wool sock (it is the best cold weather sock in the world, I have two pair and I regard them with the same affection as I afford my appendidages). If you can't get the Dachsteins, get the thickest wool sock available (smart wool makes a good pair). Over the two socks add a vapor barrier (the vapor barrier adds heat, but causes sweat, but the powder counters the problem). I have two pair, the best set is from Patagonia as they are sewn better and fit better. From 30 degrees to around 15 degrees you do not need the vapor barriers. If itz below zero, take those chemical warmers, you can get them at any hardware store, (the smaller rectangle ones that are designed to fit inside ones mittens work best). Using a little duct tape to hold them in position, affix the warmers in a manner that covers across the top of ones toes. The above works well for any temps from 10 above to around 10 below (if warmer than that you will not need the chemical warmers)...When it getz seriously cold, like up in arctic Alaska (I use to live in a Native village called Koyuk, near Nome...great winter biking, but seriously cold), add a neoprene mountaineering overboot (40 Below out of Seattle makes the best overboots in the world, used by guyz on Everst, Mckinley, etc. They are not that expensive and they last forever...I have a pair that I bought from those guyz back in 1985 and they still work great for both cycling and climbing and even skiing). It is crazy cold, like two years ago at the Arrowhead where it got down to 42 below, I stuffed a bunch of those chemical warmers down the overboots and my feet were never cold...One more thing, Wool cycling leg warmers bunched up to insulate the lower calves w/ a couple chemical warmers stuffed in next to the inside arteries act to heat ones blood as well...I have developed this system over the course of decades and I believe it to be the best...But many guyz approach the problem by replacing the cycling pedal with a platform pedal which allows for the use of a much warmer boot. I have tried this, but it sacrifices ones ability to pedal efficiently. Now you have the secret, Young Jedi...It is up to you to use it to do only good deeds! C
Thank you Charlie. I have the Lake winter boot. The problem is that I have huge feet. Size 15 and I use the biggest size they make which is 50. I don't have much more room to acccomodate what you suggested. I might have to go to a snow boot and go the platform pedal way. thank you so much for all the additional hints and tricks. much respect, Ari
5 comments:
Is there a lesson to be learned when even the local priest can't inspire enough courage to overtake the Belgians?
Love the QB pictures lately. Of course, I'm Dutch so am a sucker for orange bikes.
There is something so natural about orange bikes. My first bike ever was orange. It was from sears and it had the big bars, banana seat and I paid every penny it was worth (39.99 + tax) with work that I did. My parents never bought any of my bikes.
Ari
sweet video, ari.
i rode with d.p. 2 saturdays ago. he's an animal. just sayin' :)
Dear Ari: Outstanding video!!! I don't know much, but I do know how to stay warm in frigid temps on a bicycle. In my view, the fundamental key with the feet is to invest in a pair of Lake winter boots. They are spendy, but they are the only ones that work and they last (I am on my second pair as my first pair finally fell apart after a good six hard seasons). Get a relatively huge size that is at least 3 sizes bigger than you would use in the summer. For example I wear a size 11.5 cycling shoe and I use a size 15 for winter (I tried to get a pair of size 16 but they were unavailable). The big size allows one to add a thick wool-felt insole (Steger Mukluks in Ely makes the best wool felt insoles). Wear a thin wool sock (Surly makes the perfect sock for this), get GOLD BOND foot powder and dump a bunch of it in the firt sock layer (to absorb the sweat...(Note: Use this trick during the T.I. as well). Over the thin wool sock add a thick Dachstein Expedition Wool sock (it is the best cold weather sock in the world, I have two pair and I regard them with the same affection as I afford my appendidages). If you can't get the Dachsteins, get the thickest wool sock available (smart wool makes a good pair). Over the two socks add a vapor barrier (the vapor barrier adds heat, but causes sweat, but the powder counters the problem). I have two pair, the best set is from Patagonia as they are sewn better and fit better. From 30 degrees to around 15 degrees you do not need the vapor barriers. If itz below zero, take those chemical warmers, you can get them at any hardware store, (the smaller rectangle ones that are designed to fit inside ones mittens work best). Using a little duct tape to hold them in position, affix the warmers in a manner that covers across the top of ones toes. The above works well for any temps from 10 above to around 10 below (if warmer than that you will not need the chemical warmers)...When it getz seriously cold, like up in arctic Alaska (I use to live in a Native village called Koyuk, near Nome...great winter biking, but seriously cold), add a neoprene mountaineering overboot (40 Below out of Seattle makes the best overboots in the world, used by guyz on Everst, Mckinley, etc. They are not that expensive and they last forever...I have a pair that I bought from those guyz back in 1985 and they still work great for both cycling and climbing and even skiing). It is crazy cold, like two years ago at the Arrowhead where it got down to 42 below, I stuffed a bunch of those chemical warmers down the overboots and my feet were never cold...One more thing, Wool cycling leg warmers bunched up to insulate the lower calves w/ a couple chemical warmers stuffed in next to the inside arteries act to heat ones blood as well...I have developed this system over the course of decades and I believe it to be the best...But many guyz approach the problem by replacing the cycling pedal with a platform pedal which allows for the use of a much warmer boot. I have tried this, but it sacrifices ones ability to pedal efficiently. Now you have the secret, Young Jedi...It is up to you to use it to do only good deeds!
C
Thank you Charlie. I have the Lake winter boot. The problem is that I have huge feet. Size 15 and I use the biggest size they make which is 50. I don't have much more room to acccomodate what you suggested. I might have to go to a snow boot and go the platform pedal way.
thank you so much for all the additional hints and tricks.
much respect,
Ari
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